Created: 11 Aug 2004
The Saturday after we arrived was spent at a couple of beaches. We also ate in the newly-opened restaurant Mateja where the food was cooked on the grill outside and was simple fish and meat. The owner even called his english-speaking waiter, who was enjoying himself on the beach, to help us with our order.
On Sunday a trip to Vis was planned. Having been out in Trogir’s bars until about 3am, we weren’t in the best shape at 7am when we left for Split to catch the ferry. On board, I caught up with some of our party in a secluded area of the onboard restaurant, which seems to be reserved exclusively for those consuming ham and eggs. Our efforts to order anything else were met with the response “Ham and eggs is better.” I was told that the room we sat in was not even unlocked until the waiter had been re-assured that ham and eggs would be eaten.
Vis is largely unspoilt, has breathtaking views over the Adriatic from the hills and is known for its wine. We headed directly to Komi탑a, found a quiet beach on the outskirts and relaxed for a few hours. In Komi탑a itself we ate, drank and chatted to one of the players from Vis cricket team. There are three teams in Croatia and they play each other and visiting teams on an occasional basis. Cricket was first introduced to Vis in the 19th century when a British naval squadron was based on the island. Between then and the 1990s when many expat Croats returned from cricket-playing nations, cricket was not played on Vis, or in Croatia.
On the mad dash back to the ferry, one car went in search of Tito’s Cave, where Josip Broz (aka Tito) based the headquarters of the partisan movement during part of the second world war. Refreshingly, it isn’t a bustling tourist trap with souvenir stands and screaming kids and isn’t well signed. There people simply a couple of people selling olive oil and other local produce on a small table, with their donkey in attendance.
Back in Split, we wandered around the old town and palace and found a great restaurant for our evening meal. The waiter was one of the hardest working people I have ever seen.